Introduction to Costumes
By Juanita Johns 1/15/2007
Venue: Where will you be dancing? Outdoor and family events normally call for folkloric or more covered style costuming. For other events, cabaret styles are usually more revealing, so use good judgment as to when it is appropriate.
What style costume do you need? Think about your music ethnicity and style of dance. The following is a list of some ideas and suggestions.
Egyptian folkloric: Beledi dress or tunic over harem pants with hip scarf, coin jewelry and head scarf or band. “Ghawazi” style coat. Props: wooden or bamboo cane, heavier zills.
Egyptian cabaret: Elements can be similar to folkloric, but with fancier fabrics, dresses and jewelry. A two-piece bedlah is common, often with decorated with beads and beaded fringe. Hair bands or accessories. Props: cabaret cane, lighter zills, veil briefly or if American Style.
Turkish folkloric: Ghawazi style coat, vest, skirt, hip shawl, harem pants, headscarf, coin jewelry. Props: zills, Turkish spoons.
Turkish cabaret: Long “V” shaped beaded fringe on bedlah. Skirts tend to show more leg than Egyptian. High heels are popular. Props: zills, veils.
Turkish Rom (Gypsy): Full skirt (worn at waist), short overskirt, vest, sleeves, head scarf, pillbox hat, hip shawl, coin jewelry.
Miscellaneous:
Fantasy Gypsy: Full skirt, blouse, sleeves, vest, shawl, coin jewelry. Prop: tambourine.
Russian Gypsy: Very full skirt worn at waist, blouse tied above waist with split or bell sleeve, gold coined jewelry. Props: fringed shawl.
Saudi Arabian or Gulf dances, a Khaleegy dress is usually worn loosely over the dancer’s party clothes. The dress is also used as part of the dance.
Persian: A coat is worn over tighter legged harem-pants, often made of satin fabrics.
Moroccan: Coat over harem pants, head scarf.
Fusion: Two or more elements combined.
Overall suggestions:
Head coverings will complete the look.
For performances close to audience, use smaller patterns, prints or detail. Coins for noise. For stages more distant, use larger detail, such as longer fringe.
Longer fringe or embellishments help accent larger movements, while shorter fringe or embellishments help accent faster, sharper movements.
For heavier figures, consider “v” shapes and diagonal lines.
Show off your best features. For example, if you have great legs, you could show more leg than midsection.
Be aware some stage and outdoor lighting can make your costumes see-through more than you realize! Check yourself in different lighting. Harem pants are recommended for raised stages and possibility of wind gusts.
Consider a larger and/or heavier veil for outdoor use, and a small veil when dancing in small areas. Louder zills for outside or distant, softer zills for small areas (or indoors near people with hearing aids).
Embellishments or accessories help accentuate undulations and/ or stomach flutters.
Ideas for extra coverage: Add veil drapes over desired area - arms, stomach. Add longer fringe, sleeves, shrug, sheer beledi dress, partial or cut-out dress, vest over bra, chains, jewelry, body stockings, or a non-stretch panel attached to bra and belt.
A fitted beledi dress can be made from a commercial pattern with princess seams.
Bras: You can cover a hard shell underwire bra (going one size larger), or cups can be purchased separately. Don’t forget to decorate the back and straps. Strap styles can vary, but should not stretch. Replace them or attach trim sewn in stretched position. Don’t put heavy fringe straight across front, and not too long if you have a short torso.
Hip belts: Try to have wide enough for coverage, yet allows for movement. Make sure you have a snug fit. Use coat hooks or men’s trouser hooks. You can add closures on both sides if desired.
Be careful with fringe as it easily tangles with itself and other embellishments. Rough edged coins, chains, and velcro may snag fabric.
If you make your own beaded fringe, be sure to use heavy thread, which can be waxed for easier stringing or embellishing. Beaded fringe can be purchased, but a dot of fabric or jewel glue or fray check will help prevent the knot at the bottom from coming apart.
Fringe, coins, or other decorations can be sewn to trim or grosgrain first. That way you can adjust placement or easily remove.
Fabric notes:
Wash fabric for pre-shrinkage.
Skirts that are cut on the bias, such as circle skirts need to hang at least few weeks before hemming.
Do squeeze test before purchasing to see if it stays wrinkled.
Crinkle cotton and faux silk, such as Silkessence, are usually easy to work with and maintain.
Glitter dot – since the glue sticks on your needle, you can buy a sewing machine needle lubricant to help and wipe down occasionally. Consider hand sewing to avoid going through the glue dot. Be aware that the dots may come off and that fabric becomes sheer in light.
Dye your own veil-weight silk at a reduced cost and better color selection. Habotai (aka China) silk. Dharma Trading Company: http://dharmatrading.com or 800-542-5227.
Hologram spandex and liquid metallic are not durable as friction causes loss of coating.
When using stretch fabric, consider which way(s) it needs to be able to stretch. Some stretch two-way, some one-way.
Lace can be tricky to sew, but does not need to be hemmed – you can use fabric glue to seal a cut edge.
Polyester knits & chiffons snag, but may curl instead of fray (as opposed to woven chiffons).
Tissue Lame can be pretty, but stiff and difficult to sew.
Keep scraps for accessories, such as head scarf. Carry tiny scraps with you for matching.
Costume Care:
Allowing costume to air out is most important.
Skirts can be kept on hangers, but may continue to stretch.
Costumes can be stored in see-through box with Silica gel packs or box with ventilation.
Bra and belt can be rolled in towel, cloth, or tissue paper. You can include accessories.
If necessary, I hand wash items in Woolite.
To deodorize, some dancers use a mixture of 2 parts water, 1 part vodka. Wipe or spray, but test for colorfast first. You can also try Fabreeze.
Add a detachable liner that can be washed or replaced.
Embellishments can also be tacked on so that they can be easily removed for washing or reused elsewhere.
Pull fabric snags through to inside.
Let hang in shower and “steam” to let wrinkles fall out.
Misc. Hints & Tips:
Practice in your costume and jewelry before your performance.
Consider background of dance area (purple against purple, etc.)
Have plenty of safety pins handy, which can be pinned to the inside of your costume or dance bag, etc.
Safety pins are also handy for adjusting slits. You can get colored safety pins to blend. Jewelry can be pinned down.
Safety pins for quilting are curved – very handy for bulky items.
Individualize by attaching jewelry, adding scarves, and overskirts.
A skirt that is too short can be a top/ accent skirt.
Glue décor, such as an appliqué to hair barrette.
Clear nail polish can be applied to protect décor such as sequins.
Tuck top skirt for a layered look with accents.
Make your vest reversible for added versatility.
Use two triangle or rectangular hip scarves – tied at each hip.
Add darts to top edge of hip scarves, or tie hip belt tighter at the top by loosening bottom edge.
Make sleeves by cutting the crotch out of fishnet stockings, tights or harem pants.
Make waist-band tighter for heavier skirts.
Bottom of skirt or accents can be weighted if it does not flow well.
Camouflage a too-short choli or bra by layering with a vest for coverage.
Pailettes are good for inexpensive flash, but are not durable.
Bring different pairs of shoes with you for a selection for different flooring and weather conditions.
Don’t forget your cover-up to wear before your show!
Feel free to contact me if you have any questions:
www.JuanitaJohns.com
